Christmas Blessings

How fortunate am I to be alive on this day. Sauntering through the French Quarter after an amazing meal with even more amazing people, I started to cry. Now, I am not a weepy person as a rule, but tonight, in this very spot, my heart is filled with so much love that it leaked out my eyes.

James is an "Accidental Cajun" who I had the good fortune if stumbling across on Twitter. I've followed him for a few months and we would occasionally toss a tweet back and forth. When I arrived in New Orleans in Friday he met me at Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop for a drink. We talked about everything and nothing - passing the time and enjoying a brew. He was kind and gracious enough to invite me for dinner on Christmas Day. So blessed!

Jack is another twitter contact. We are both visiting the Crescent City from places afar - he is here from West Virginia. His love of this city and its music may just outreach my own and that's saying a lot. With a few foiled plans we finally met up at Pirate Alley Cafe and put away several adult beverages and talked the better part of 4 hours away. Having adequately assaulted our livers, we ambled into the beautiful St Louis Cathedral to sing a few carols; exiting promptly when the topic turned to "modesty". Neither of us are practicing any organized faith and I figured we were hedging out bets staying as long as we did. The cathedral intact - our heathenism did not crumble the walls.

Jack and I headed to one of my favorite streets on the planet - Frenchman Street. We spent some time at The Spotted Cat Music Club tapping our toes and drinking a bit more. Jack's traveling companion, David, a former student and incredibly charming young man (ugh - I'm getting old) joined us and after a few more sets at The Spotted Cat we went to check out Mimi's in the Marigny.

I will pause here for a moment to tell you how much I would delight in this being my every day life. I have never been in a city, with perhaps the exception of Toronto, where I have ever felt so alive and completely myself. Living in Michigan, I always feel like I have to live up to someone else's expectation of who I am and how I should act. I am very quiet, introverted, and do what is expected of me in Michigan. I have spoken to more people here in New Orleans in the last 5 days than I have in Michigan this entire year. I chatted up a couple from Wisconsin. We talked about suicide in the military. I talked (somewhat) to a group of five 30 something's from Brazil. We danced and drank and they kissed me as they left. I talked with "Irish" at the bar and the adorably counter guy at The Clover Grill. Countless people said "Merry Christmas" to me and I took up the torch and started saying it first. I would never remove that protective bubble that I live in at home. I would never have sat just people watching if I were in Michigan. I would be home watching an infinite supply of Law and Order reruns or curled up on the couch with a blanket, a book, and a fur kid or two.

This may be a huge part of me wanting to move to New Orleans. I love the ability to not be lonely and still be alone. I have gone from one relationship to another in my life and now that I am intentionally taking a break from that I find that my isolation is even greater. Time to take the lessons of New Orleans home with me.

Back to my trip - Mimi's was more music and more booze. It was Christmas Eve so the crowd was tame but I imagine it being a great space to hear music. I will be back. Jack friended the Accidental Cajun and was also invited for Christmas Dinner. Tonight was that dinner. James and his delightful wife, Rylene, we very loving hosts. James said dinner would be at 3pm - being the prompt northerners, we showed up at 3:05pm. Good natured ribbing ensued because we were early having not learned New Orleans time.

The food was indescribably delicious! Boudin stuffed turkey, ham, lasagna, Brussel sprouts, greens, Au gratin potatoes, and a jambalaya that will live forever as one of my favorite dishes of all time! The food was awesome, but the love and acceptance of these "Misfit Toys" by James and Rylene and all their friends was what made my heart swell.

I'm back in my condo (Pam's condo - but she makes a point if telling me its my place too) listening to the rain storm outside, trying to blog on my iPhone and debating what this evenings events will be. I may just kick back and relax - or I may go search for music on my last night in the city. All I know is this Christmas has blessed me with many things. Beautiful people, unparalleled music, food the likes of which I have never seen before but most importantly a new perspective on me and my interaction with my fellow planet travelers. I declare now, at this moment, to try to feel this blessed every day. I will try to put myself out there a little more, open up and be accepting of greatness.

I love my home for the people I have in my life. Kristina and Joe are my best friends and care for me as family. My son is my world and is my reason for all I do. With these few exceptions, I don't let others in. My Christmas Blessing this year is the realization that I can (and should) let others in. Be it for a 10 minute conversation, and afternoon of drunken debachery or for the breaking of bread. There are others out there and if I open up a bit I may share a minute, hour, day, lifetime of smiles.

My shell has cracked this Christmas Day...

I'm in love with NOLA - and this is why...

A friend asked me what are my "must dos" in New Orleans. I compiled a list and it turned into a novel!  Here is it if anyone else is interested (or for my own reference in the future).

Yo Mama’s Bar – 727 St Peter - Get a burger and a baked potato for around $12.00 – Two people can split this and be full! Sit at the bar, you get better service and can have fun with the snarly, busty waitresses. On St Peter just riverside of Bourbon Street (Drinks are cheaper here than ¼ block away on Bourbon Street)


MRB’s (Stands for Mississippi River Bottom) – 515 St Phillip - This is a DIVE bar. No doubt about that. The fun part about this bar is the dogs that come in. JW is a 3 legged, droopy eyed boxer who lives across the street and spends more time in the bar than on the streets. Not a must do – but JW is good for some puppy scratching.

The French Market Restaurant – 1001 Decatur - Good food. Reasonable prices. If it is nice out, sit on the balcony and look out over Decatur Street with an excellent view of “Joanie on a Pony” (statue of Joan of Arc). I had a great meal here one evening in May and when I came back in July I found out that my waiter and his girlfriend (both who worked there) died from some bad heroin. The bar was doing a second line for them. Sad news but shows the reality of New Orleans and also the family that is built in a city like this.

The Star Steak and Lobster House – 237 Decatur - After hitting it big at Harrah’s one night, a friend and I had lobster for 2 and barbecues shrimp here. The Shrimp was to die for!!! A little fancy but fancy in NOLA is a relative term. At least stop in for some of the barbecued shrimp – and be prepared for messy fingers.

Johnny’s Po-Boys – 511 St Louis - Best roast beef Po-Boy in the city (in my opinion). Not a fancy place and not open late, but a roast beef po-boy and a red pop fit the bill!

Verti Marte – 1201 Royal - It’s a convenience store (and its 1 block from my condo!) They have a huge board of sandwiches and a case of prepared foods. It’s a tiny place and there is no seating, but the food is amazing. My personal suggestion – and “All That Jazz” sandwich. It’s amazing!

Camilla Grill – There is one on the St Charles line - 626 S. Carrollton - and one in the Quarter- 540 Chartres. The food is ok, the wait is long, but the grilled Pecan Pie is OMG supper yummy!

The Clover Grill – 900 Bourbon - Greasy spoon (and I do mean greasy!) but they make a decent burger. The charm of this place is sitting at the counter and watching the overly effeminate gay guys grill a burger under a Cadillac hubcap! Good breakfast spot. Small place – lots of food.

Frenchman Street – You need to wander Frenchman Street. During the day it is quieter and you can go into some of the little cafés. I got the best salad at Café Rose Nicaud – 632 Frenchman Street - but Frenchman Street really comes alive at night! The street is basically music club next to music club. You can hear trad jazz, zydeco, blues, rock, Cajun, funk… just keep walking down the street. There is usually a group of kids with their horns on the street corner playing and folks dancing in the streets. Don’t try to drive down Frenchman in the evening. It’s a mess. Park in the Riverfront lots OR just take the street cars. If you take the Riverside streetcar line to the downriver end you can walk around the US Mint and basically be on Frenchman Street in 2 minutes. If you are only going to go to one club, hit The Spotted Cat. My favorite places in order of favoritenesslyness are…

The Spotted Cat – 623 Frenchman

Apple Barrel – 609 Frenchman

Maison – 508 Frenchman

d.b.a. – 618 Frenchman

Blue Nile – 534 Frenchman

Café DuMonde – 800 Decatur - across from Jackson Square. Gotta do it, at least once. Powdered Sugar everywhere. It’s worth visiting the original - there are several in the city now. While you are there, stroll the Moon Walk (named for the former New Orleans mayor Maurice "Moon" Landrieu) wander into St Louis Cathedral (It’s pretty even for us heathens), or peruse the art hanging on the fence but avoid the mule carriage rides. If you want to do a tour, do the Katrina City Tour (the ticket booth is by the Steam Boat Natchez boarding area). It was a very informative tour and takes you all over the city including the Lower 9th Ward (the worst hit areas from Katrina) and shows not only the blight but the regeneration. They go by the musicians’ community, the green homes that Brad and Angelina are helping with and they even make a stop at one of the Cemeteries.

Meltdown - 508 Dumaine – Has an amazing Salted Carmel popsicle. Local Mom-N-Pop store.

La Divina Gelateria – 621 St Peter – Get the Aztec Gelato – Chocolate, cinnamon and cayenne. Get a small portion. It is rich but so flavorful!

Pat O’Briens – 624 Bourbon - is touristy and expensive but the dueling piano bar is kind of fun. Before you commit to a $14 drink, make sure they are dueling.

The Ruby Slipper – 200 Magazine – Good breakfast – great Mimosas. There is a new location in the Marigny. Haven’t been there yet but may have to go this time.

Mother’s – 401 Poydras – People rave about their breakfasts but there is always a HUGE line, often around the building. The food was good, but in my opinion, there are too many other great places to eat that I don’t want to wait an hour for this.

Central Grocery – 923 Decatur – Home of the original Mufalata – Get ½ (they are huge) a bag of Zapps chips and a Barq’s root beer and either grab a stool (if you are lucky) or take it across the street and sit on the riverfront and enjoy. Worth the wait.

Wander through the French Market – cool food and art vendors. If you continue downriver you will hit the flea market with typical flea market stuff. I bought a cook shoulder bag there. I was in need. It was convenient and cheap.

Streetcars – You can pay $1.25 per ride (exact change please) or you can pay $3.00 for an all day pass (valid until 4am). These passes can be bought on the street car, just tell the driver before you put in your money if you want the all day pass. You can also buy a several day pass but only at specific kiosks. I know there is one at Canal and Bourbon but I usually just get the daily pass if I am going to be traveling out of the Quarter.

I hear the WWII museum – 945 Magazine - is great but I have not been yet. I did go to the Audubon Aquarium - 1 Canal - and was disappointed. I think after someone has visited Shedd Aquarium that nothing except perhaps Monterey Aquarium will compare.

Wanna do something g cheap? Heck, FREE! Take a ride across the Mississippi River on the Algiers Ferry – Free for pedestrians. It is a nice way to see the river and the city from the water. Hitch a ride at the base of Canal Street (right by the aquarium).

If someone tells you they will bet you $5 that they can tell you where you got your shoes, smile, tell them “I got my shoes on my feet” and walk away.

Wander down Royal from Canal to around St Phillip – Lots of art galleries and antique shops. One block down from Bourbon but a world away from the insanity.

Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar – 941 Bourbon – Is the longest continuously running bar in America (or something quaint like that) They have a purple drink that will knock your socks off and you don’t even know your shoes are still on. The patio area has a small half circle with a cool statue in it. Kind of a sad story. Lafitte use to trade in slaves 9and anything else he could get his hands on.) This area was the auction block. The statue is of two people entwined lying on the ground of the auction block. To memorialize all of those that were torn from their loved ones in the slave trade.

If you find a “snowball” place, get one. Something creamy. It’s a snow cone in a cup but there is something about the creamy (versus the traditional fruity ones we get up here) that make them very special.

Dragos -2 Poydras – In the Hilton – Get their charbroiled oysters. Oh My GOODNESS. Amazing.

I still want to explore the Treme, the House of Dance and Feathers, Congo Square, Bacchanal's, Kermit's Speakeasy, Vaughn's, I want to be there for VooDoo Fest, Po-Boy Fest, Jazz Fest and everything else that ends with Fest. Mardi Gras is in my future. I want to become intimately familiar with City Park. ::sigh:: New Orleans - You've stolen my heart!